Miss Anthrope Takes to the Hill(s)
An hour’s walk outside Marlay Park, lost and drenched wondering why walking for hours on a Friday had ever appealed, I think a map might have been a good idea after all. It was probably the wait at Castleknock train station that took away my common sense and the heretofore morning’s resolve to undertake my journey despite the weather warning, looking at the tracks wondering how the train wheels don’t get stuck on the rocks. My rain poncho proved pathetic and in the middle of traffic it appears “in-the-general-direction-of-Wicklow” was misguided intended destination to walk and camp.
As it often uncharacteristically happens to me, for a misanthropic curmudgeon, I turn optimistic and cheerful in difficult situations, and in my staunch atheism, the animist in my me sends signals to the universe which means I often get away with my caprices – but how often will fortune be provoked before it smacks me on the lip with a rather large destiny cane, I ask myself. Just then a car pulls up and the nice couple who had guided me uphill, stop and offer to give me a lift. I apologize profusely for disrupting their day, but they insist and take me all the way to Knockree, stopping in Glencree to show me the sanctuary centre for German orphans of WWII, now used as a reconciliation venue for different peoples of the North and the Republic. I imagine a world reconciliation centre where dictators start hurling crockery about because there’s no vegetarian option for tea. Four deer stop to greet us down the narrow path where we look for a hostel which should be here. They leave me at the doorstep eventually, and a drizzle overtakes the floods at the feet of the Wicklow hills. A hare hops towards the fence, and hops back, judging me. I walk inside slightly defeated.
Sat on the verandah with a cheap Merlot and Mathiessen’s account of dying species from African Silences, I think this is what my life will be defined by: aborted and paralyzed adventures, something out of an unpublished French roman at the turn of the century. Eating dry-roasted peanuts en masse, listless yet grounded. In the dormitory, an American woman living in London seems fresh from her whole day’s walking. There are bits of her creamy olive skin and naturally shiny hair as we get ready for an early night in our cots, and I tug at my gourd of a stomach and feel my thinning grey hair on the pillow.
In the next, bright morning, the hills blaze in green with cross-stitched patterns of wilderness. After a mocha from the coffee machine, a pear and chocolate biscuits, I head towards where I think Enniskerry should be. The sun shining on the valley in a way to make one think there are mythical monarchs buried all around. Arriving shortly after, I am surrounded by what an Irish village on an autumn Saturday morning should be – I need to write an essay studying the relationship between an Irish village’s topography and its Hegelian essence at certain points throughout the day. Brief stop to adjust my as yet unused camping gear, then uphill to see the Powerscourt waterfall. I confess, I hadn’t woken up this day thinking to myself “I simply must go and visit a waterfall immediately or else my hair will turn into owls,” but it seems like something I must do. Peace greets the visitor from the fee-paying lodge – I mean 5 euro 50…I ask you…- and the trees arrange themselves reverently in the soft light. Above the rumble of the waterfall, a witches’ brew of cloud wisps gathers along docile hilltop. Fatigue and sleeplessness makes me lie against a tree for a good while, listening to water. Falling.
Perhaps because of this, I get a slight paranoia walking back towards Glendalough in search of an isolated spot to pitch my tent for the night. There is a couple collecting blackberries along a steep hill and a hush along spectral iron gates. I push on a bit further and “Community Watch” signs that have been part of the journey, pop up again, more sinister than reassuring. The couple gathering blackberries have taken on a Bergmanesque element of fright. I skirt around towards Roundwood and decide to try to climb up the isolated hill with the abandoned troughs.
On the edge of an intersection where the lower vegetation makes it easier to climb the stone fence, I hoist the bag up and furtively tug at the branches to see if they’ll lift me. I manage to fall in the brambles and drag my bag through the thistles, by this point determined to stay here even if a serial killer with a penchant for Coldplay should happen to be staying nearby.
Immediately, my tent is impregnated with wind and it takes six or more heavy stones to keep it grounded. I struggle to hold on to it and the various pieces that need joining, hoping my Keatonesque pitfalls will assuage any angry farmers or vagabonds- I imagine a Dickensian villain, but more dangerous because he’s actually read Dickens. I’ve a panoramic view of the mountains, Bray coast and an assortment of animal feces. An assembly bracket hits me on the lip and I realize what’s wrong. After a sip of wine, the rigidly flaccid tent takes on a more comic personality, and though it somewhat obey henceforth, it still seems to need some sort of exorcism, flailing and battling in the wind.
Perched on a stone, munching on wine, apple and peanuts, I listen to the ululating wind and see the sun fade over a lush green temple, with thousands of spots that would have better hosted a tent and its useless owner. The wind and persistent paranoia keep me up throughout the night, and finally decide to pop outside the tent to make sure there’s no one approaching. Only a phantasm of a perfectly still half-moon and huge stars atop black hills.
The next morning on the walk towards Bray, I make use of my groggy, sleepless voice to try out my Tom Waits on the quietly grazing horses.
Marie you are the wild blue sky
Men do foolish things They turn kings into beggars Beggars into kings
The train back to Dublin with a longing look at the sea, a would be welcome relief to my blistered feet, as the women next to me discuss the ingratitude of guests. I turn to Mathiessen and accounts of elephants that aren’t seen and the red hum of the harmattan wind.